Welcome to my blog about my planned upcoming trip!
This is a trip that I have planned for a voyage to Vancouver Island and back, passing through the Southern Island region (or Greater Victoria), then to Cowichan, and finally briefly through Nanaimo in the Central Island region.
This trip will be four days and three nights long. It will take place from September 29th to October 2nd. The reason is so the last full day would be on September 30th, or National Reconciliation Day. I plan to be at the Victoria Powwow event on that day.
Works cited are at the end of this document!
Some preparations: I will be driving a car to travel to and from destinations, and must bring camping supplies. I will also need to be able to prove my age to be 18 or older, or have an adult travel with me to check into hotels. 😉
Day one
From Vancouver to Tsawwassen then finally to Swartz Bay, I will travel down south to Sidney to go whale watching.
Lands
Sidney, or otherwise known as SET,TINES (Elliot), is situated within the traditional territory of the W̱SÁNEĆ People on the southern tip of Vancouver Island. In SENĆOŦEN, the language of the W̱SÁNEĆ People, the land which the Town of Sidney sits on is called SET,TINES, which means “chest sticking out,” in reference to the way the land juts out into the water (Town of Sidney).
Cultural connection – namesake and stories
Sidney has been home to the W̱SÁNEĆ People for millennia, their name which means “the emerging people”. On the Saanich Peninsula, the W̱SÁNEĆ people made their winter camps, and travelled the seas by canoe to nearby islands. The W̱SÁNEĆ people have a legend that connects their name to this land: it was said that when the world was flooded where the last treetop fell below the water, a new mountain emerged and the W̱SÁNEĆ called it their new “place of refuge”, and themselves “the emerging people” (W̱SÁNEĆ Leadership Council).
Personal connection
During May of my Grade 10 year, I had the privilege of being part of the first Vargas Island trip, where we indulged ourselves in the wildlife of British Columbia. Looking even farther back, I made some of my best memories on a whale watching ride during the Grade 7 Vancouver Island trip, and was fascinated by all that I could see − it was the first time I saw marine wildlife beyond a TV screen. Going whale watching again will relive this experience, to feel again like a kid staring jaws dropped at the grace of orcas and the basking seals.
Activity
Sidney Whale Watching is an Indigenous-owned business part of Sidney’s eco-tourism, listed on the Indigenous Tourism BC site. The business is family owned and has been running for over 20 years. Every day from March to October, there are three-hour whale watching and wildlife tours over the region known as the Salish Sea. Passengers can expect sightings of Killer whales, Grey whales, Humpback whales, Minke whales, and the occasional Fin whales. There are of course also dolphins, porpoise, sea lions, seals, river otters, a huge variety of seabirds, and some imported land mammals.
Tickets:
- Adults: $154 (Ages 16-64)
- Seniors: $134 (65+)
- Children: $104 (3-15)
Tours begin at 1:30pm in September.
(Sidney Whale Watching)
Accommodations
After the whale watching tour, I will travel to Victoria and stay at Salish Seaside RV Haven, an Indigenous-owned business offering services as a campsite, but also providing float homes as accommodation. The park is operated by the Songhees First Nation and Esquimalt First Nation. The RV park is located in Victoria Harbour, offering visitors marvellous views during their stay and simultaneously the convenience of proximity to the heart of Victoria.
Day two
To the capital of British Colombia, on Truth & Reconciliation Day!
Lands
Though the city of Victoria began its life on its founding in 1843, the land it resides on is part of the traditional territory of the Lekwungen People. Lekwungen had lived, hunted, and gathered on what is now known as Victoria, managing the land with careful, controlled fires and food harvesting.
Accommodations
Because I would have already arrived at Victoria the previous day from Sidney, I will be staying at the same location, Salish Seaside RV Haven. If I decide to camp outside the previous night at the RV park, perhaps for night two I could try to see if I can book a floating home in advance. It would be a nice change, especially given how floating homes to me are a novelty — to this day, I have yet stepped foot into one of these homes.
Personal connection
I think it is safe to say that most non-Indigenous students of WPGA have never been to an Indigenous ceremony or celebration. To best understand the Indigenous culture is to immerse oneself into their culture. The powwow presents itself as a rare and perfect way to both participate in their celebration and also to achieve a better understanding of what reconciliation really means. I hope I will take away from the celebration a greater sense of sympathy, as well as lots of laughter with the locals.
Activity
I will be timing my trip so that I will be in Victoria on September 30th, or the National Day for Truth and Reconciliation to coincide with the massive South Island Powwow that had over 10 thousand attendees last year. The powwow will recognise survivors of the residential schools, and most importantly celebrate Indigenous resiliency through song and dance. Oh, and I’m sure there will be plenty of authentic Indigenous food and cuisine, because a powwow would not be a powwow without a feast!
This will be the second powwow the Songhees Nation had since Indigenous ceremonies were banned. The admission to the powwow will be free, and it is organised by the Songhees Nation. The powwow will last all day from morning to night. (Songhees Nation)
Cultural connection – environment shapes names
For thousands of years, First Nations peoples have resided in Victoria’s inner harbour. Victoria prospered as a trading hub for a variety of First Peoples thanks to its temperate climate, natural harbours, and abundant resources, weaving a complicated history of land usage for the Lekwungen area. The First Nations peoples cherished the harbours’ naturally calm waters over the years and relished the abundance of berries, crabapples, and camas roots that grew there. Despite having a big population, they respected the spirit of the land that gave them clothing, food, housing, and transportation. Due to the frequent winter windstorms, the Esquimalt and Songhees peoples called the region Lewammen, or “the land of the Winds.”
Day three
Victoria to Duncan in the Cowichan region to truly immerse in Indigenous arts.
Lands
Before the arrival of Europeans, present-day Duncan was part of the traditional territories of the Cowichan Nation. The Cowichan Band is currently the single largest band, consisting of over 5,300 members. Traditionally, the area near Duncan was used as permanent winter grounds by the Cowichan people, with related families living within the same longhouse. When warmer, the Cowichans hunted, gathered, and fished for months away, before eventually returning again to the Cowichan area in winter (Cowichan Tribes).
Accommodations
Unfortunately there are no Indigenous-owned hospitality businesses listed in or near Duncan, according to multiple indigenous business catalogues (Indigenous Tourism BC; Shop First Nations). I considered the Thunderbird Motor Inn, which appeared to have an Indigenous theme to its website, but its site offered no other information. Other hotels in Duncan much less did not have their own websites. Ultimately, I chose the Thunderbird Motor Inn, for its walkability to local tourist attractions and restaurants, and I cannot confirm any Indigenous-owned accommodations.
Personal connection
Indigenous arts are often displayed in areas of high foot traffic concentration: for example at countless locations in UBC, and almost everywhere in the YVR airport. However, something that the typical pair of eyes do not get to see is the process of creating these artworks and belongings. I hope to get the chance at the Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre to witness the materialisation of Indigenous arts from raw materials, and hopefully even learn how to make them! Even though I myself have never been an arts person, I am genuinely surprised to find myself so much at interest in discovering the process of Indigenous art.
Activity
On the way from Victoria to Duncan, I want to take a short stop at the Mahalat Skywalk to take a big breath and inhale the grand view offered atop this tower. But walking is not my main objective today! I want to spend the majority of my time at the Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre.
The Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre is a hub for local indigenous culture and arts. Owned by the Cowichan Tribe, the centre is committed to sharing the stories and traditions of the Cowichan people and offers interpretive tours, traditional artwork, salmon barbeques, displays and live demonstrations, and the Khowutzun Tzinquaw Dancers. If lucky, I may even be able to witness work-in-progress totem poles take shape!
Admission to Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre is completely free of charge, and is open from 10:30am to 3pm. (VancouverIsland).
Cultural connection – seasonal cycles
Duncan, along with regions of Cowichan lake, the Cowichan and Koksilah River drainages, the regions around Cowichan Bay, and more, belonged to the traditional territories of the Cowichan people. The Cowichan observed annual cycles of occupation and resource gathering. In general, Cowichan Tribe members camped out the winters in Cowichan Bay and Cowichan Valley. By the time temperatures are warm, they would travel through the Gulf Islands to the Fraser river, hunting various resources along the way. Months would be spent hunting, gathering, and trading on the Fraser River before the Cowichan returned to their traditional territories and their winter villages, for example the region that Duncan is in. (Cowichan Tribes).
Day four
Nanaimo, Newcastle Island, a goodbye to Vancouver Island and one big meal.
Lands
On this final day of my adventure, I will be travelling to Nanaimo in anticipation of the ferry ride to Horseshoe Bay. But before that, I have some time to visit Newcastle Island.
Belonging to the traditional lands of the Snuneymuxw people, Newcastle Island, or known as Saysutshun, is park and − you guessed it − island accessible only by passenger ferries. The namesake Saysutshun means ‘training for running’ and refers to the special places where runners, canoe paddlers or warriors would bathe to cleanse themselves before a race or battle. The park offers stunning trails with breathtaking views of Nanaimo and the Coastal Mountains. The island in the mid-1800s became dominated by the coal-mining industry, pushing off the Snuneymuxw people. It has since lived its life as a fish-salting plant, shipyard, sandstone quarry, and finally the park that it is now (Newcastle Island Ferry Service).
Why meaningful for me?
Saysutshun is said to offer stunning views from its seaside trails, and I think hiking here would be the perfect way to unwind from the travelling and tight schedule I have wrapped myself into for this trip.
Cultural connection – the land and the heart
Newcastle Island, or Saysutshun, holds a special place in Snumeymuxn history and culture. Before European contact, Snuneymuxw people lived on the island throughout the late winter and early spring in order to take advantage of the annual herring run. It also has been a source of traditional medicines of spiritual and physical healing. Those who grieve for lost loved ones go to Saysutshun to heal their heart, mind, and body.
Activity
To make my schedule for today, day four, clear, my actual main activity would be travelling. The plan is to drive from Duncan to Nanaimo, and visit Newcastle Island before embarking on the ferry from Nanaimo to Horseshoe Bay.
The park features an extensive network of walking and hiking trails that lead to various historic points around the island. There are lots and lots to see; along the trails, one can see mute evidence of at least two Salish villages, which were deserted before the discovery of coal in this area in 1849 (BC Parks).
The park is open all year round, and the ferry operates from 9am to 8:45pm (Newcastle Island Ferry Service). The only fee to visit the park comes from the ferry round-trip, costing $15. The island is a park, therefore publicly managed by the government.
There will be no staying at Nanaimo: once aboard the ferry, I will be returning to Vancouver. But, there will be one last spot before the conclusion of this voyage, in Vancouver.
One last dinner
After riding the ferry to Horseshoe Bay, I want to make my way to Broadway to the restaurant Salmon n’ Bannock, to celebrate and conclude my journey from Vancouver, through Southern Island and Cowichan, to Nanaimo, and finally back again. Salmon n’ Bannock is quite the renowned restaurant in Vancouver, and is an Indigenous-owned restaurant. The owner, along with the restaurant’s staff, represent many different First Nations from around Canada. Cooking is insomuch an integral part of Indigenous culture as arts and traditions are. I find that completing my journey with both a large hearty meal and one last cornerstone to complete my experience of Indigenous culture is a perfect way to end my chapter in discovery of some of BC’s First Nations culture.
Works cited
Elliot, Dave. “Saltwater People.” School District 63 (Saanich), 1990.
“About Sidney.” Sidney by the Sea, www.sidney.ca/About_Sidney.htm. Accessed 9 July 2023.
“Whale and Wildlife Tours near Victoria, BC.” Sidney Whale Watching, 4 July 2023, sidneywhalewatching.com/whale-watching-tours/.
“History & Territory.” W̱SÁNEĆ Leadership Council, 30 May 2023, wsanec.com/history-territory/.
“South Island Powwow – Songhees Nation.” Songhees Nation, 2023, www.songheesnation.ca/south-island-powwow.
Community Foundations of Canada. “Ahead of #allin2019: A History of the Area around Victoria.” Community Foundations of Canada, 29 May 2019, communityfoundations.ca/ahead-of-allin2019-understanding-the-area/.
“Quw’utsun’ Cultural & Conference Centre.” Vancouver Island News, Events, Travel, Accommodation, Adventure, Vacations, 28 Dec. 2019, vancouverisland.com/things-to-do-and-see/attractions/quwutsun-cultural-conference-centre/.
“Where to Stay.” Indigenous Tourism BC, 21 May 2019, www.indigenousbc.com/where-to-stay.
“Indigenous Businesses.” Shop First Nations, 3 Sept. 2020, shopfirstnations.com/locations/canada/british-columbia/duncan/.
“Pre-European Contact.” Pre-European Contact :: Cowichan Tribes, cowichantribes.com/about-cowichan-tribes/history/pre-european-contact. Accessed 11 July 2023.
“Culture & History.” Culture & History – Saysutshun Newcastle Island, newcastleisland.ca/culture-and-history. Accessed 11 July 2023.
“Saysutshun (Newcastle Island Marine) Park: BC Parks.” BC Parks, bcparks.ca/saysutshun-newcastle-island-marine-park/#park-activity-container. Accessed 11 July 2023.
Images Cited
“Vancouver Island.” Vancouver Island Bucket List, https://vancouverislandbucketlist.com/vancouver-island-maps/.
“Ferry Route from Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal to Swartz Bay.” Google Maps, 2023, maps.google.ca. Accessed 2023.
“Inner Harbour of Victoria.” World Wild Hearts, https://www.worldwildhearts.com/post/locals-guide-to-victoria-bc.
“Totem Poles.” Duncan Sightseeing, http://www.duncansightseeing.com/downtown-duncan/.
“Seyshutsun (Newcastle Island).” Tourism Nanaimo, https://tourismnanaimo.com/app/uploads/2017/07/sarahetoile-newcastleisland-2.jpg.
“Totem Pole at Quw’utsun’ Cultural & Conference Centre.” Vancouver Island, https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3522/13073592664_4785df4f5f_c.jpg.